Gorpcore Explained: Is Fashion’s Outdoor Trend Sustainable?
It’s probably not the first time you’ve heard the phrase core, the frequent suffix that appears after words that morph into niche fashion trends (cottage and norm spring to mind).
But currently, gorpcore is the one that has been abundant, both in the wild and on the streets. While ostensibly a good thing, connecting poeople to the outdoors and brands that do better, is gorpcore actually as sustainable as one might believe?
Read on to learn more and decide for yourself.
What is gorpcore?
Gorpcore is a fashion trend based around utility, comfort, and the aesthetics we’d normally associate with outdoor activities such as hiking, skiing and camping. The term ‘gorp’ is an acronym for Good Ol’ Raisins and Peanuts, a snack usually carried by hikers, as a nod to the outdoor community. But nowadays, it’s common to see this style in city streets as much as out in the depths of nature.
You can spot gorpcore as streetwear style pretty easily. Look for hiking gear, puffer jackets, Gore-Tex fabrics, hiking boots and neutral clothing, and you may be in the right place. Brands such as The North Face, Patagonia or Arc’teryx may be visible.
If you dig around on the internet, the most common consensus on key gorpcore elements, include:
- Functional outerwear: puffer coats, technical jackets and windbreakers that are designed to withstand harsh weather, such as extreme mountain conditions.
- Fleece jackets and pullovers: for warmth and breathability.
- Technical performance fabrics: like Gore-Tex, ripstop nylon, and other water-resistant materials designed for performance.
- Outdoor Footwear: functional shoes for the outdoors, such as hiking boots or trail running shows from brands like Salomon, which are designed for rugged or extreme outdoor conditions.
- Earthy colour palettes: neutral shades such as greens, browns, greys, and blacks abound, reflecting natural landscapes. The occasional pop of bright colour may appear, but it’s not the star of the show.
- Layering: adaptable to different environments and weather conditions you may experience on outdoor adventures. Lightweight base layers and thermals sit under the fleece and outerwear, combining practicality with form.
- Functional accessories: backpacks, beanies, crossbody bags, multi-pocket vests and anything else for the outdoorsy essentials.
Basically, if they’re in the city but look like they could be halfway up a mountain, potentially even with a hint of a high-fashion twist, then you’ve found a gorpcore girly.
The history of gorpcore
Of course, for long-term outdoor enthusiasts, this is no trend. While some brands may have jumped onto the aesthetic bandwagon, many people have lived this way for years and simply have the gear required to get outdoors safely. These people can usually be recognised by well-worn gear that’s lovingly cared for, alongside a passion for outdoor life.
The style trend, however, started gaining popularity around the mid-2010s as influencers and celebrities began to combine functional wear with street style. Collaborations between outdoor brands and luxury fashion houses, such as The North Face collaborating with Supreme (which began in 2007) and more recently with Gucci, blended the two even further, pushing oversized outfits, colourful layers and recognisable logos.
In 2017, the term gorpcore was then officially coined by Jason Chen for The Cut. At the time, Chen described it as
Gorpcore’s not fashion for the 1 in 7 billion, nor is it fashion for the one percent — it’s live-good, do-good, feel-good fashion for the ones who care just a little too much.
But is this actually a do-good, feel-good trend? Or is there more to consider?
The good side of gorpcore
In an ideal world, gorpcore promotes a different kind of life. It encourages people to get offline and out of the city, going on adventures into natural landscapes with other people. If it encourages people to pursue fulfilment outdoors, through popularising walking, hiking, camping and other activities, that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. All of these can be useful tools to help more people come into contact with green and blue spaces, learn more about the world around them, find community, and care for nature.
As a cultural movement, it has potential. Especially if people are only buying what they actually need to do these activities.
As a fashion fad, however, it’s not so simple.
The sustainability issues with gorpcore
Firstly, pursuing gorpcore clothing from a fashion trend perspective will set you back financially. An Arc’teryx coat can cost anywhere from £280 to £900, a puffer from The North Face ranges from £125 to £630. If you’re not practically using this gear, or wearing it for decades, that’s a lot of money. These items were often designed for extreme weather conditions and outdoor life, not for a stroll around London. And some brands may be overcharging because they know the aesthetic is popular right now. If this is your approach to gorpcore, do you actually care about nature, or is it about wealth and status?
Plus, at these kinds of prices you’d hope to have some ethics in the supply chain, but this isn’t always the case. While many of the original consumers of gorpcore style clothing may love the outdoors, that doesn’t mean every brand values planet and people. For example, Good on You rates the The North Face as ‘it’s a start’ while a 2023 investigation found that Patagonia was unfortunately using the same factories as large fast fashion brands such as as Primark and Zara. You can’t just see the gorpcore aesthetic and assume you’re getting ethics alongside it.
Most importantly, it’s key to look at the waterproof technical fabrics that many gorpcore pieces utilises. Many of which are virgin plastics, and many of which contain a whole lot of issues.
The sustainability issues with gorpcore’s technical fibres
Technical fibres and fabrics are often seen as a key feature to gorpcore pieces, with a commitment to function as well as form. Most prominent among them is Gore-Tex. Created by Gore (formally W.L. Gore and Associates), Gore-Tex is essentially a teflon product that is designed to be waterproof and breathable simultaneously. There are times when these kinds of fibres can be essential, for example for those who regularly climb mountains, work in severe outdoor environments, or are frequently outside in harsh conditions.
But does everyone in capital cities need to be coating themselves in Teflon, or should this be reserved for the select few who really require these kinds of materials for safety?
Additionally, the makers of Gore-Tex are now facing two lawsuits alleging that they poisoned drinking water and sickened residents around their facilities in rural Maryland. In December 2024, the state of Maryland filed a lawsuit against Gore over alleged environmental violations. The suit alleges that Gore’s historic use of forever chemicals known as PFAS in 13 of its Maryland production facilities led to environmental pollution of the soil, groundwater, surface water and drinking water, and that Gore knew and concealed the toxicity of these chemicals.
In February 2025 a class action lawsuit was also filed on behalf of 4000 people, claiming that these facilities polluted drinking water with levels up to 700 times above federal limits with PFAs. The tainted water caused high rates of cancers and other diseases linked to PFA exposure in the area.
The lawsuit offers many examples of Gore’s ecologically sound promises from its website and marketing materials, luring would-be customers with statements of “environmentally sound” products and “acting responsibly” regarding nature’s sensitive environments. Gore even touts responsibility as “a top priority for our business.”
Attorneys allege the company’s ‘misleading greenwashing campaign’ masks the truth that PFAs, as used in its Gore-Tex outdoor gear, bioaccumulates in the environment and sheds toxic chemicals in the very sensitive habitats Gore plasters onto its website to sell its products.
“We believe that the nature-loving consumers buying Gore-Tex products have been hit where it hurts most. They were misled about the environmental impacts of the outdoor gear they purchased,” said Steve Berman, managing partner at Hagens Berman. “Gore knew that its customers wouldn’t purchase products that could be linked to contaminated water supplies, and so Gore orchestrated a greenwashing campaign to cover up the impacts of its products.””
Gore denies these allegations.
So what can we do?
Firstly, ask yourself if you actually need to buy that item you’re thinking about, or whether gorpcore is a passing trend that you won’t care about a few months from now. Will you actually wear that £400 virgin material jacket for outdoor walks in punishing conditions? Or could you get something else instead? A good test for this can be to bookmark an item you’re interested in, and returning to it at a future date to see if you still care about it.
Beyond this, if there are gorpcore-y items you’re interested in getting that you will wear, use and love, you can consider the following:
- Secondhand first: before any other option, seek out your gorpcore secondhand. My first pair of hiking boots used to belong to my mum, and I used them for 15 years before they eventually became unusable. It can be done!
- Durability: Seek out items that are built to last, that you can get repaired, and that you can see yourself wearing for generations. Don’t go for something faddy that you’ll fall out of love with, choose pieces that are durable in style and substance.
- Buy less, buy better: you don’t need a whole new wardrobe to match the most recent trends. Buy something you really need, from a brand recommended by Good on You or Ethical Consumer, and with a transparent supply chain and better ethics. For example, try a Yulex natural rubber wetsuit from Finisterre, or their performance jackets which are recycled and repairable rather than virgin Gore-Tex
When trying to live sustainably, the best choice we can make is always figuring out how not to buy something, how to work with what we already have, or how to source secondhand. The fashion industry will always try and sell us new trends and aesthetics, even when they try to sell us the outdoor life repackaged as city style. Always take the time to stop, ask yourself what you really need, and challenge yourself on how you get it.
If anything, take the idea of gorpcore as inspiration and get outdoors more with the people you love! Let the practical clothes be dictated by what you feel you actually need. Take the spirit of gorpcore and leave the rest behind.